The Pursuit of Beauty

What is it that drives the antique collector? Is it more than just the hunt? The hunt needs to have a purpose. I believe it is the pursuit of the beautiful, that satisfaction of having an object touched by hand and made with imagination that speaks to the soul. 

LAPADA, the Association of Art and Antique Dealers held its 5th annual fair at Berkley Square at the end of September.  This Fair has become an essential visit for those in the pursuit of beautiful things: the pieces of furniture, textiles, silver, ceramics or art that will add to your collections. Because many of the dealers come from outside London, it is a chance to see the best the country has to offer.

When I visited the fair I saw many of the loveliest pieces from collectors and dealers. Being a designer, I find endless inspiration from fairs like LAPADA. It gives me a chance to see pieces of work that are usually only seen in museums. But throughout years that I have been advising on art and antiques I can’t help but notice even antiques go through fashions. 

This year I noticed less Gustavian influence and more of the rich, warm and mellow mahogany furniture from the 18th and early 19th centuries. Graceful and elegant, these pieces of furniture are always an investment, but make such a statement in a home or office. Early 20th century and modern pieces are still favourites though, with smooth lines and soft colours.

When I was a kid, fashion illustrations were some of the first drawings and designs that caught my eye in newspapers when I was a kid. They have been a favourite of collectors, starting with Erte, in the early 20th century. This show had the original illustrations by Eva Aldbrook which were commissioned by The Sunday Times fashion pages in 1956. They were shown by Gray Modern & Contemporary Art and this was the first time they have been seen since publication… very exciting. It was a delight to see them, the fresh lines, shapes and watercolours all created that elegance of 50's glam. 

As I looked at them I couldn't help but think of fashion illustrators today working on Illustrator and Photoshop, what will we have in the future? We’ll have to look into a crystal ball to find out!

Written by Kelly Fannon who writes for the FOCUS Magazine and who has a passion for antiques, art and interior design. 

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Review of Pearls: V&A and Qatar Museums Authority Exhibition

Exhibition open until 19th January 2014 at V&A.

The C&A Pearls Exhibition

I would highly recommend a visit to the latest remarkable exhibition of ‘Pearls’ at the Victoria and Albert Museum. On display is an enormous collection of multi coloured natural pearls including the pink conch pearl; brown, black, blue green abalone pearl and the orange Melo pearl. Any mollusk with a shell can produce a pearl.  

Natural oyster pearls have been fished in the Arabian Gulf from the earliest times until the 1950s using the same methods of diving to a depth of 22 metres. It takes 2000 oysters to produce a suitable pearl for use in a piece of quality jewellery. As you look at the magnificent five row natural Gulf pearl necklace made by Cartier from the 1930s, you can appreciate the time taken to collect the pearls which need to be matched according to scale and lustre.

Grand Jete, gold with diamonds and two cultured baroque pearl

Pearl trading in the Gulf, from Saudi Arabia to Dubai, Bahrain to Qatar, started as early as the 7^th Century where Arab merchants crossed the Indian Ocean to India. Chinese merchants also travelled to India to find highly prized natural pearls from the Gulf. By the early 19th Century the Arabian Gulf was the major global supplier of natural pearls. At their height, the great jewellery houses of Europe sought the best quality ‘oriental’ pearls between 1850 and 1930. Today the natural pearl has become a prized rarity.

Gold hair ornament, Roman, 3rd Century AD

From Roman times to Medieval Europe pearls symbolized wealth and status. Gorgeous Renaissance jewellery examples abound, set with multi coloured gemstones such as garnets and rubies alongside pearls and richly enamelled gold pendants. There are beautiful examples of late Victorian diamond and pearl brooches and Art Nouveau jewellery, some by Lalique and Vever, showing designs of plants and insects, in gold, enamel and horn sculpted into natural forms. There is also a pearl sautoir necklace worn to the waist amid the 1920s fashionable flapper dresses. There are incredible examples of seed pearls beautifully sewn into jackets and dresses, even one worn by Her Majesty the Queen!

Rosebery pearl and diamond tiara dated 1878

The highlight of the exhibition for me personally was the wonderful collection of pearl and

diamond tiaras. In particular, the Rosebery pearl and diamond tiara dated 1878 with natural

bouton and drop shaped pearls, set in silver and gold surrounded by old cut diamonds. There is even jewellery from the Hollywood stars: a pearl necklace worn by Marilyn Monroe and a pearl and diamond ring that once belonged to Elizabeth Taylor!

Kokichi Mikimoto (1858-1954) in Japan developed a patent for making round cultured pearls from Akoya oysters at the turn of the century which heralded the start of industrial production and in the 1950s cultured pearls were at their fashionable peak. There are South Sea cultured pearl necklaces in many colours, the finest produced by Pinctada Maxima oysters farmed in Burma, Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines and Australia. There is a stunning necklace by Yoko, London incorporating these multi coloured cultured pearls from the South seas set in 18 carat white gold with diamonds. This is a beautiful and unusual collection which is open daily and well worth a visit!

Written by FOCUS member Gemma Darlington FGA, Jewellery specialist and gemologist of Gem’s Fine Jewels www.gemsfinejewels.co.uk

 

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A walk in the park

We all know that London is a major player in the world art scene, so the opening of a new gallery is always exciting. Being located in the very beautiful and popular Kensington Gardens is an added attraction and lends itself to a great family day out.
 

Serpentine Sackler Gallery

Located on the north side of the Serpentine lake, the new Serpentine Sackler Gallery opened on 28th September with an installation by Argentine artist Adrian Villar Rojas. The original building, known as The Magazine, has had various uses throughout its history, but was built in 1805 as a gunpowder store – look up for the stained glass windows in the main room, created by Rojas. A very modern addition has been designed by Zaha Hadid (incidentally, she designed the aquatics centre for the London Olympics) and hosts a restaurant which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There is a great contrast between the pre-Victorian Magazine and the ultra modern restaurant – I found both spaces very interesting on their own, but also together.

The Serpentine Gallery Pavilion 2013 by Sou Fujimoto.

A short stroll away is the original Serpentine Gallery.  Built in 1934 as a Tea Pavilion, it began life as a gallery in 1970 and is currently showing the works of Marisa Marz. There has been an annual outdoor ‘Pavilion’ designed and built in the adjoining garden since 2000. This is a temporary structure which is designed by an architect who has not previously worked in Britain. Given that this is temporary, there is a new structure every summer, and usually hosts an outdoor café. My son took great pleasure in climbing to the top of what looks like something he created from a magnetic construction set!

Both galleries are very small, and are ideal for even the youngest children who might have a short attention span. Having two energetic boys, I can vouch for this first hand. Of course, there are so many attractions in the park that they too can choose from a variety of activities. There is the Diana Memorial Playground located in the northwest corner of Kensington Gardens. Kids can let their imaginations run wild with a pirate ship, teepees, hidden walk ways as well as toys and play sculptures, and we have spent hours there.  A word of warning – trying to extricate your kids from the playground may be a trying experience! The Round Pound has a large population of ducks, geese and swans, my boys like to bring along stale bread to feed the local wildlife. 

Diana, Princess of Wales' Memorial Playground

Diana, Princess of Wales' Memorial Playgrou

Also nearby is Kensington Palace, Queen Victoria’s birthplace and the current home of the present day Prince William. The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, as they are also known, have set up residence in the palace with their son Prince George of Cambridge. Recently renovated, the public entrance has been transformed, and you can visit the King’s State apartments, the Queen’s State apartments and the gardens. 

There are many more things to do and see, so put on your walking shoes and head for the park!

Written by Eva Stock
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Daytime Date

 

Our daughter started back at school last week ... and her dad and I played hookie; mitched; played truant – whatever you like to call it  when you really ought to be at work or school but decide to go off piste.

It was a date. And all the better for being a little bit naughty and unexpected.  Since her very first day at her very first school, “Dad” has taken the morning off work to walk the daughter in to school - a family ritual to start the school year.  He holds her hand all the way, gives her sound advice, a big kiss and sends her off.  This year, as she is 16, he compromised on the hand-holding bit and let go at the corner.  She scooted in before the kiss but ran back out again, a sucker for tradition, and grumpily proffered her cheek when no one was looking.

And there we were.All dressed up at 8.30 am with nowhere to be in a hurry.  The sun was shining and the sky was blue.  So off we scooted to breakfast at St. Paul’s while harried city folk rushed into overheated offices. We sauntered over the bridge to Tate Modern, caught a couple of exhibitions early, beating all the crowds and, as a really special treat, took the River Bus Tate-to-Tate, to catch the Lowry at Tate Britain.

We were all done by lunchtime, the husband set off to meetings feeling virtuous, cultured, daring and relaxed.  I totally recommend it.  The date part and the boat along the river which allows you to avoid all that messy business on the underground until you have to rejoin the real world and really get back to work. Have a look at the current FOCUS magazine for many more ways to travel by river.

In fact, it was such a success that I am considering starting a new tradition in our family. A monthly date.  I might have to work on getting the daughter to agree to the hand-holding into school though.  She will be 17 in November...

Written by Jan Winter
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Lost in Aisle 7

Choice is a great thing. Choice we understand is a fundamental privilege many of us are lucky enough to enjoy in various aspects of our lives. When it comes to grocery shopping in Britain I am sometimes frustrated by the lack of choice and no doubt have been known to lose my temper in my local Sainsbury’s when I find my favourite brand has been replaced with some generic compromise, or worse, just removed. However, I have, for the most part, come to terms with life in a smaller country and the fact that at times material choices can be more limiting than in my country of origin.

It dawned on me this summer just how much I had adapted to life in Britain and the daily supermarket food choices. I had the pleasure of spending time in the US in the beautiful state of Maine- vacationland, home of blueberries, lobster and whoopee pies. In fact there is a state-wide debate over whether the state food is blueberries or whoopee pies- tough choice! Going to the grocery store became a popular event (the air conditioning was heaven) although one that always took longer than anticipated. The choices were bewildering!

While looking for 100% pure cranberry juice not from concentrate I became lost in a sea of juice and thought I would never exit aisle 7 alive. I remember as if it were yesterday the Ocean Spray label so familiar from childhood.  This is a no brainer I thought, easy peasy lemon squeezy. Ahhh, but did you know that Ocean Spray produces a zillion varieties of cranberry juice - from concentrate, not from concentrate, cran-apple, cran-raspberry, cran-lemonade, cran-grape, cran-pomegranate… you get the gist.

What amazed me is that for nearly every product on my shopping list from ice cream to Ziploc bags to cereal I was faced with the same task.  Really, I wonder is this choice necessary or even a good thing.

Later in the summer I went to follow a favourite American recipe for cupcakes (I can hear those of you that know my passion for cupcakes laughing) and underwent the task of finding almond extract. This resulted in me crossing State lines to New Hampshire! What happened to all my choices?!

While the UK may not stock an unimaginable variety of household, daily consumables it comes into its own with speciality food shops catering to a multitude of nationalities and tastes. Ditto for restaurants.  Have you ever tried to get a good curry in Maine? Yes, I am happy to have escaped aisle 7 and be back in London even if I do miss blueberries, lobster and whoopee pies!

Written by Nancy Dickinson
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The non-touristy side of London

I am currently 7 weeks into my stay in London.  I have become so much more used to the culture now that I’ve spent some more time getting acquainted with the lifestyle.  During the first few weeks of my stay I was quite overwhelmed by the fast pace and big city culture that it has to offer.  I originally came to London for an 8 week internship programme with 30 other students from all over America.  As the weeks passed, each one quicker than the last, I knew that 8 weeks was not even close to enough time for my stay because I was just starting to get used to the style of living.

As I said in my previous blog, I almost immediately became friends with a few local Londoners just two days after my arrival.  Instead of spending most of the time that I have off from work with the other 30 Americans from my programme, I decided to branch out and spend a lot of it with my new English friends.  Yes, I do realise that I am part of a programme and I do stay involved, but I came to London to get to really see the parts of London that tourists usually do not.  I came here to meet some people that are different to those that I am used to, which was frightening at first, but I went for it and the results could not be any more rewarding.

My new friends have shown me too many places in London to remember.  They have taken me North, South, East, West, and everywhere in between.  Most of our time together is spent playing football in different parks, going out at night, exploring, and most importantly laughing.  Many people have told me that the English have a very strange sense of humour but I have never laughed and smiled so much in my life.  They are hysterical! 
British people have also been especially welcoming.  I get invited to every social gathering, event, and even just to hang out and watch some television at the flat.  As the end of my 8 week programme has approached, I told my new friends that I would be leaving very soon.  This is when one offered for me to stay at his new flat.  My new friend that I had just met a few weeks ago said, “Stay as long as you want you’re always welcome at my place.”  Wow!  I immediately re-scheduled my flight back home.  I’m now going to be in London for another whole month!  I could not be more thrilled.  I couldn’t have come close to imagining how great this experience would be 7 weeks ago.  I am so grateful.
Written by:  Jared O'Neill
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What a great City!

I have to say that this is the first summer in 16 years that I have really enjoyed staying in London during the month of July. The weather has been consistently very nice and hot. I did not have to bring a jacket or a jumper with me at any time of the day and had the opportunity to enjoy many evenings dining “al fresco”. Because of the several guests who came to visit, I also did a lot of sightseeing and walking, sometimes to places that were completely new to me.

Last Friday, thanks to a colleague’s suggestion, I decided to go with my daughter, a friend and her son to the Royal Docks, a new area that was developed recently after the opening of The Emirates Air Line, a cable car that operates between North Greenwich and the Royal Docks. We took the tube to North Greenwich and wandered around the O2 arena, discovering many things including “the climb of an icon”.  If you are not afraid of heights and want to see the view from the top of the arena, you can climb to the top.

I am not particularly comfortable with heights so decided to pass on the Climb and went straight to the cable car without realising what I was getting myself into.  The Air Line can be paid for with the Oyster card (£3.20 for adults and £1.60 for children) and the procedure to board is very easy and comfortable. It was only once on board the cable that I noticed how high it was and how close to City airport! I took the ride without really looking at the spectacular view as I was quite terrified. After what seemed to be an eternity to me, we finally reached the other side.

The kids were all excited as they had seen some large plastic bubbles on the water and insisted on going there. The bubbles are in a small, confined area which is very safe.  Kids (or adults too) go inside and, once zipped in, can feel what it is like to be a hamster rolling around inside a giant plastic ball. They had great time trying to run inside the ball and splash in the water without getting wet! They were also fascinated by some other water activities that were available near by, including water skiing and water jet packs. I had only seen them in a James Bond film and had great fun looking at people using them. Of course none of us dared to try it, but if you feel brave this is something really cool to do.

The return trip by cable car was less painful as at least I was mentally prepared for it. The day continued with a delicious sandwich at Borough Market and a walk in the City. We were exhausted but happy after a fun and different London experience!
Written by:  Alessandra Gnudi
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